A Cruise in the Hyères Islands
Hyères is a pleasant Mediterranean french seaside resort. Facing this pretty and sunny small city, there are the famous and beautiful islands naturally named "Iles d'Hyères". They were detached a long time ago, from the small mountains called "Chaîne des Maures" (between Hyères and Fréjus). They close, to the South, the magnificent bay of Hyères. In the north side, in a cove sheltered by an elevated escarpment, is the famous "Fort de Brégançon", the well know french presidential vacation place.
We are going to try to share with the reader our unforgettable discoveries of the Hyères islands during a cruise made by a nice summer weather. And we will discover together what makes the personality of each island.
The road of the sail boat from Toulon to Saint Tropez
At the departure of Toulon, we board on the "Keranna", a nice sailboat that is waiting for welcome us for the cruise. Leaving the harbour, we pass along the "Clemenceau" an old aircraft carrier (see the photo below); it is waiting for his last journey. It clears from this immense and rusted hull a big sadness and the nostalgia of an age that has gone.
But the sailboat continues to go on and, at a given time, leave the roadstead of Toulon. The wind fills the sails. All is right. First, it is necessary to pass off the peninsula of Giens. On the one of promontories, we had surprised to see an astronomical observatory. At least, straight ahead, we can see the Hyères islands.
About two to three hours later, we arrive in the immense roadstead of Hyères. The sea is intensively blue with some willow-green reflections. From the boat, we have a nice panorama. To the north, toward the continental side, there are long beaches. On the other hand, to the south, there is the island of Porquerolles. It is the more western and the most important of the Hyères islands by its measurements (the length is about 7 km and the width 3 km).
Its North coast discovers itself, as we advance, with its sandy beaches and pine woods. We finally stop in a small cove called "Anse du Bon Renaud". Once the sailboat anchored, we dive in the transparent and refreshing water, and it is with a real pleasure that we swim among others sailboats that are anchored like us.
The following day, under a beautiful sunrise, the sailboat raises the anchor and head toward the harbor of Porquerolles where we do some shopping. We also do a small walk in the village. It is strong picturesque with its typically provencal style houses and many restaurants with large bamboos covered terraces. But we must leave Porquerolles and go toward the island of Port-Cros. Then we engage a long navigation; the sea sparkling all around the boat under the hot sun.
To reach Port-Cros, it is necessary to get round Bagaud island. It is probably the lesser-known of the Hyères islands. Afterward, the island of Port-Cros appears in its splendor. Its coasts are much steep. An abundant vegetation covers them (see the photo at the right side). Port-Cros is listed national park. Its fauna and its mediterranean flora are unique in Europe. Water is there very clear, so that one can see the bottom of the sea.
But there are few beaches on the island. Before the night doesn't fall, we look for an open berth. After having bordered the strand for a long time, we arrive in a bay called Port-Man, a well sheltered place. We advance slowly between several sailboats already anchored in this cove. Finally we find a good place and we can quietly putting down the sailboat's anchor.
We swim again in the pretty blue-green water. The cove is surrounded by beautiful fragrant greenery. A soft breeze has boats rocked pleasantly. After the bathing, we take the aperitif on the cockpit of the sailboat. The dinner follows. The evening is pleasant on the anchored boat. All is quiet and sweetness to live!
The following day, we continue our eastward road toward the "Ile du Levant" that is the last of the Hyères islands. It is big enough (about 8 km of long and 1,2 km of width). They passes the west part where is Héliopolis, a village that attracts every summer a crowd of naturists. Then we arrive quickly to the military part of the island where the access is forbidden to people. We see some army facilities: radars, antennas… We see also an enormous stranded cargo on the foot of a cliff. This has been made voluntarily to constitute a small harbor called "Port de l'Avis". It is reserved to the crafts of the french navy.
The sailboat continues to border the island then takes its road in the high sea, all sails over, toward Saint-Tropez. It stops at the evening in a very beautiful bay, the bay of the Canoubiers, and put down the anchor no far of the house of the elder famous french star Brigitte Bardot who live there !
Once the sailboat anchored, we admire a superb sunset with pretty reflections on the sea as well as a beautiful panorama on the coast and the illuminated sea resort of Sainte-Maxime.
The following day, after one quiet and relaxing night, the sailboat raises again the anchor and goes in the harbor of Saint-Tropez who is near of the bay of the Canoubiers. This route is easy but requests a sharp attention because the bottom of the sea is not regular. It can present small shoals called "mattes" in french. They moved following the movements of the sea and are sometimes unforeseeable.
By the sea, we get round the famous village (see the photo above). We enjoy with a superb view on the typical houses enclosing the famous and well known bell-tower of the church. Then it is battlements dominated by the tower called "Tour du Portalet". Again one moment and the sailboat is entering in the harbor by an entrance that proves to be well narrow. It is necessary to make indeed a strong attention; so much there is the traffic. But René the captain assures (see photo below)...
The harbor is cluttered of yachts; some are modest, but many others are magnificent. There are a great variety of sailboats, including very big ones with varnished decks and sparkling winches. Not easy to find a place! Nevertheless we can find a small place where we win to moor the sailboat.
And all the crew can disembark on the pier. There are a lot of people. Saint Tropez doesn't always have anything lost of its celebrity and its summery crowd!
We do a small walk in the commercial areas. Then we depart a little to be going to stroll in the small streets and alleys (photo at the right ) to have a beneficent freshness.
It is with this stop in the harbor of Saint-Tropez that our navigation ends. And it is with regrets that we must leave the nice sailboat who must continue its navigation toward another destination. It is the boat's life!
During the entire journey, we have had a magnificent weather with sweets breezes. We also benefited the pleasant bathing that offered us bays and cove in which we made stopover.
Very pleasant trip !
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This text has been written by Dominique Prégniard. Photos by Marc Prégniard. |
Dominique writes the Books Columns in "Echo-Magazine", the main monthly magazine. | |
of the french deaf and hearing impaired | |
Text translated into english by R. Legal |
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